Sunday, February 14, 2016

German Heritage in Russia

Impressions and historic insights from a trip Saratov -Volgograd

Our first destination was a Lutheran church (see photos) or rather its remains, the second a Catholic church closer to Volgograd. 














To the latter location (photos below), settlers came from Germany, Switzerland, Italy, Luxemburg-- Katherine II asked for residents from many different countries. Our guide's ancestors came to Russia at the time from Poland. He explained that this area was the frontier then.

A village close by is called Zuerich--toponyms rock.





The trips' ultimate destination was 'Staraya Sarepta', 'Old Sarepta', an open air museum for history, folklore and architecture.It used to be located 15 km outside of Volgograd but it has since been incorporated into the city. The museum is a rather large complex of 28 buildings, most restored, some in dilapidated condition, from the 18th and 19th centuries.  In essence, they are arranged around a large square. 

Originally, this house was meant for females and males after age 14.
They all had to leave their parents and move into this building. 
Obviously, there were strict separation rules in place. 
Nowadays this building serves as hostel-this is where we stayed overnight.
These buildings form the core of one of the oldest German colonies (1765) along the Volga region the existence of which is unique in Russia. Five brethren from the Herrenhut community- a Protestant splinter group - first colonized the area here to serve as self-appointed missionaries to the Kalmucks, a nomadic people of Buddhist belief. (As a side note, south of Volgograd is a region where the way of life of the Kalmuck including their belief  in Tibetan Buddhism survived to this day.) These brethren believed in learning the language of the Kalmucks and succeeded in translating the Bible.

The original church was in quite dilapidated condition
and restored in the 1990s.
The church received an organ in 2005 from Lutherans in Germany.
The center of the settlement was the church as depicted. It was built in 1772 and served the Herrenhuter Protestant religion till 1892. At this point the community became Lutheran. Over time, more brethren joined the original group, many from Germany but Swiss and Danish settlers also. For a long time they obeyed the strict rules of their particular religion such as strictly regulating marriage -- it depended on available housing. Partners were selected by a sort of lottery; a young girl would pick a strip of paper with a name from a bowl in the church. This way God had chosen. Some of these settlers became quite successful farmers, but also merchants, scientists and pharmacists.

Of these, three activities stand out. The most remarkable success came with the importation of mustard seeds from Germany. Mustard grows well on the semi-fertile soils of the northern latitudes such as can be found in Germany and its introduction into the Russian steppe had extraordinary consequences.
Orange shows today's distribution of the Russian/Germain mustard seed,
the brown color depicts a different strain

Soon one of the brethren owned a mustard factory (model below)-- the major product was mustard oil, also mustard of course. Sarepta mustard was the first to be produced in Russia and stood for great quality. 
The mustard seed plant is shown on top; bags that held the seeds in cart

The Czar promoted the growth of mustard by having mustard seeds distributed to whoever desired them. 
Model of factory



























Bottle in which the water was sold
Another activity that brought money to the settlement was the sale of water mixed with certain herbs and mustard plant promising healing powers similar to today's spas. This water lost its importance with the discovery of healing springs in the nearby Caucasus areas. The water was sold in the apothecary shop (pharmacy) depicted.
Apothecary
Original cellar.


Wine-making was also a major enterprise by some colonizers. Like their counterparts elsewhere vineyard entrepreneurs kept the wine in large wooden barrels in their cellars; the latter were kept cool by cutting ice from the frozen rivers in the spring so that the temperatures could be kept the same temperature throughout the year. 




With the money that became available people bought fine China,good long-lasting furniture and music instruments. Women not only spent their time spinning wool, but they crocheted little doilies. All in all, the effect was that many households really resembled German ones (compare photos taken at the museum below).



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